A new dyeing process for woollen garments is set to revolutionise the industry and change the way merino fabric is designed and marketed.

The new technique involves changing the colour and graphics of the fabric in the design process, and not merely printed on top.

Dr Stewart Collie, who heads up the textile development team at AgResearch, says the process is the result of 18 months of hard work by a raft of New Zealand scientists.

“It certainly allows companies to colour products in a more efficient way than they would have previously. I think for the sector, if we’re lucky it will do very well.”

The fabric will be commercialised and manufactured by Wellington company BGI developments, which hopes to supply international fashion houses with the material.

BGI’s director, Robyn George-Neich, says the collaboration is a classic example of how the many stages in our production sector can work together.

“This has got so many applications, this time next year we’ll be looking at places we don’t even know about now.

“It can be applied to all natural fibres – wool, cotton, silk, possum fur – and we can achieve a clarity of dyeing and pattern that we’ve never had available before.”

Both parties say there is considerable international interest in the process and the fabrics already, and there is potential for the innovation to become ‘the new norm’.